My adult version of Halloween Trick or Treating is to gather highbush cranberries when they are red and ripe in the autumn. In cool weather (40s F), I amble around the hundreds of plants on our property, delicately raking the glistening red fruit through my fingers and depositing them in a bag slung over my arm.
Mature, fruit bearing plants range from waist high to 15 feet here, with an airy arrangement of opposite maple-like leaves on slim, upward curving branches. (see photos below) Both in spring and fall, they are very pretty. This time of year, the foliage varies in color as far as the eye can see - green, yellow, orange, red, and burgundy - depending on whether their locations are sunny or shady. I pick a gallon at a time of the reddest fruit, letting the orange ones imbibe their full complement of sunny goodness for a few more days.
Most bushes prefer to grow in dappled shade under or near birch trees. But the “blue ribbon” producers thrive in a sunny thicket in front of the lake where no birches grow. I puzzled over this anomaly for a while until I remembered all of the waterlogged birch trunks we had hauled out of the lake back in 2007 and 2008, to ensure safe passage for docking float planes. Based on the birches leaning precipitously over the water elsewhere on the lake, I presume that the root balls of those erstwhile trees probably drowned in saturated shore side soil, and tipped into the water. In the meantime, they created an ecosystem conducive to my beloved cranberries.
As I wander about, kicking yellow birch leaves, I can feel that the cooling land is getting firmer under foot. I breathe in the musty scent of the woods, and listen to the rasping sound of drying and brittle leaves as they rub against each other. I pop a few of the tart, juicy fruits into my mouth and feel them squirt out their load of vitamin C. To me, this is the iconic taste of fall. What a pleasure these daily excursions are. They stimulate all five of my senses.
After each day's harvest, I rinse the berries and sort out any debris before popping them in a bag to store in the freezer until I have enough to go through the process of assembling, using, dismantling, and cleaning my manual food mill. Unlike bog cranberries, these have a flat seed to extract, so I set up two bowls - one to receive the juice (for people), and the other to collect the seeds and pulp (as a winter treat for the chickens). Most of the juice I sweeten with our newly harvested honey and drink thick, like a nectar, hot or cold. Some I set aside unsweetened, to add a wonderful flavor to barbecue sauces, vinaigrettes, and fruity desserts.
As a child, my exposure to cranberries was limited to canned jelly on Thanksgiving. Now I nurture the plants for the spring and fall beauty as well as their tasty, vitamin rich addition to my larder.
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Recipe for Barbecue Sauce:
2 cups fresh, unsweetened cranberry juice
2 cups beer
2 cups molasses
2 cups vinegar
1 small can tomato paste
1/2 cup black coffee
Dried orange rind, about 1/4 of a fruit
Herbs and spices to taste. We like it hot, so add a lot of hot dry peppers and garlic. I also like a "dark" flavor so I add cloves and cinnamon.
