Sunday, July 16, 2023

A Dog's Life in Alaska: racing, coffee kiosks, and bears

You might think that the Alaska state sport would be hockey, but I would argue that it is dog mushing.  The most famous race is the 1000 mile long Iditarod the first weekend of March, but there are many other shorter, qualifying and alternative races, too, that we all follow.  Conversations buzz with references to favorite mushers and favorite dogs.  My husband and I live in an area of many competitive and recreational dog mushers as well as long time volunteers who help out at the races.

A Jr. Iditarod racer and volunteers on our frozen lake

The Junior Iditarod race, for teenagers, used to pass right in front of our cabin.  It was fun to a teen on a sled, pulled by a team 10 or 12 dogs, each wearing fabric booties to keep ice from forming between the toes.    

One of the state heroes is a dog, Balto, who was supposedly the lead dog delivering life-saving diphtheria medicine from Nenana to Nome back in 1925. Some impresario bought him, showed him at fairs outside the state, and then the dog lived out his dotage at the Cleveland Zoo.  A statue of him resides in, of all places, New York City. 

In Alaska, several dog mushing operations offer tourist activities.  We have friends who work for one near Willow, AK.  One of their duties is to take tourists on woodsy excursions by ATVs in summer and sleds in winter, both pulled by a team of strong dogs.  (You might be surprised by their size.  Mushing dogs, like huskies, are mid-sized, not mastiffs.)

A dog oriented-culture is surely true for most trans-polar regions.  Dogs were cheaper to feed and more successful in the cold than horses and mules to haul supply loads and people through heavy snow before the engines.  And heck, the warmth and companionship of dogs are welcome during long cold winters, too.

Sometimes we fly to town with Buddy, secured in a dog crate that fits neatly behind the two seats in our little Piper floatplane.  He does not like being cooped up, so we always ensure something fun for him upon arrival.  First we explore the leafy foliage along the lake where we dock.  Then, treat of treats, we drive to one of the many stand-alone coffee kiosks.  EVERY ONE offers a treat to accompanying dogs when “their people” order.

Buddy on the kayak's bow

In anticipation, Buddy jumps into Bryan’s lap, and looks expectantly out the window at the server as though to say “Whatcha got for me?” Most offer dog biscuits but one gave him a plate of whipping cream with a slice of bacon.  Our dog practically crawled out the window to move in with that guy!

In towns and outlying areas, we see people with their dogs in every form of conveyance – trucks, planes, rowboats, motor boats, canoes, sleds, ATVs, RVs, and running along with bicyclists and joggers.  A number of stores, like Sportsman’s Warehouse, and of course, Pet Zoo, allow dogs inside.  Some restaurants allow them at outside seating.  I was surprised to encounter a pizza-making craft beer bar with a big fenced yard that did not.  Seems like a missed opportunity.

 Many people take their dogs to work, especially at “Mom and Pop” businesses. Most of the air taxis have a dog on the tarmac or dock.     I have seen pooches lazing behind the counters of a hardware store, a retail shop, and a car repair place, among many other locations.  One Veterinarian who was a private pilot made his living by flying out to remote lodges and dog races to care for animals on site.  When he retired, he sold his plane to a friend of ours.

Some dogs are beautifully trained to retrieve water fowl for hunters and help with moose hunting.  In the past, some dogs were trained to tree bears, but I do not know anyone here who uses that tactic.

What I do NOT see are small dogs.  An Alaskan would not be caught dead carrying a tiny dog in a purse or pouch.  Up here, we call those “eagle bait.”  Interestingly, I have not seen any labelled service dogs either. 

When we get together for picnics with human friends, they often bring their dog pals, too. For the latter, I bring some of our homemade dog treats (basically unsweetened peanut butter crackers). 

In state parks, it is a rule that dogs must be leashed.  Some people want to let their pups run free, but this can be hazardous.  If a dog encounters a bear and then runs back toward his people, the running triggers the prey instinct in the bear, who will give chase towards the owner!   Similarly, if a loose dog disturbs a cache of food hidden by the bruin, the big guy could be resting nearby and roused to fiercely defend the carrion he was saving for a future meal.   

Fortunately, where we live, on a remote lake with a population of 4, Buddy lives a leashless life.  He jumps in the lake when he is hot or thirsty, and wanders the property, darting after birds and toads.  Because he has seen moose and bear close up through screened windows, he is alert to their scents.  We hope he will be a good warning system when dinner is approaching through the woods.  The next day, humans and canines will enjoy bear or moose steak on the grill, with a little blue cheese butter drizzled on top.