Sunday, September 3, 2023

Bountiful Berry Harvest in Alaska + Recipe for BBQ sauce with berries

Sadly, 2023 was “the summer that wasn’t.” The Land of the Midnight Sun was, instead, the Land of the Midnight Rain and Mid-day Rain.  One friend quipped that his location only had three rains - but one lasted 28 days!  In fact, local weather reporters said that this has been the coolest summer since 2008.  The temperature was not as much of a problem as all the rainy and overcast days. For us, I think the longest stretch of consecutive, sunny days was 4, and those were few and far between.  

 For someone who tries to raise a lot of our own food, this was a sad state of affairs. My vegetable gardens were pretty much useless.  Seeds, seedlings, and bulbs rotted in the ground, and those that grew were leggy and thin.  Cauliflower and broccoli never set heads.  Sunflowers never flowered.  Even the plants protected from rain in the greenhouse, were underwhelming. 

Fortunately, though, 6 different herbs did well on a covered porch, so I dried or infused them in cooking oils and we harvested GALLONS of berries which love this ecosystem in sun or rain.  Yea!

Our manual food mill

Our boreal forest has acidic soil, from the spruce trees.  So berry bushes are common under story plants.  Wild raspberry bushes grow in such dense stands that I have to cut them back with a weed whacking blade to create a path or to encourage anything else to grow in that area.  I love wild high bush cranberries, though, and nurture hundreds of those plants, pruning dead branches and suckers, culling weak ones to give healthy ones room to grow.  Some of the plants now tower above the “normal” height as slim trees.  Little blueberry bushes hug the lake shore.  We kayak to gather a handful at a time.  Even our dog likes to eat those berries right off the bushes.    

In addition to enjoying the wild berries, I have planted many others, such as haskaps, red, white, and black currants, raspberries, saskatoons, gooseberries, and strawberries. I enjoy their flowers, foliage, and of course, the tasty fruit, which range from sweetest (saskatoons and strawberries) to tartest (currants and cranberries).  All of them are chock full of vitamins and anti-oxidants.

By various preservation methods, we enjoy them throughout the year.  Those without big seeds are the easiest to use.  Some, I freeze whole, to pop into pancakes, pies, or muffins or snow ice cream in winter.  Others I store in vinegar.  Most I pressure can for shelf stable juice, jam, jelly, chutney, and other concoctions, like barbecue sauce (See recipe below).  

The first harvest of the year is haskaps from five bushes that line the south side of our cabin. 
About a gallon of currant juice
They range in size from 6x5x4 to 3x3x4 ft.  The fruits have a knobby, elongated shape, like one’s little finger, with dark blue-purple skin.  They taste like a cross between a blackberry and a concord grape.  After eating our fill straight from the bush, we harvested about 1 ½ gallons, mostly for a delicious jam.  I love it with corn pancakes. 

Domestic raspberries spread as prolifically as their wild brethren.  My original 15 canes now fill 4 rows, about 14 feet long, each, plus scattered other plots, plus all the canes I have given away to friends or yanked out of adjacent gardens that they invaded.  We harvested about 6 gallons and finally stopped because the rain battered the remaining fruit.  We use this bountiful harvest in various ways.  Bryan recently made a batch of beer with 5 lbs of raspberries.  I add some to a batch of pinot noir (that I make from a kit of concentrated pinot noir juice - Fontana brand, about $69 to make 6 gallons).  I make many jars of spicy barbeque sauce this time of year with one berry or another.  This year: raspberry. 

None of the currant recipes I find on line seem to bother about the many seeds, but the variety we planted has lots of them for the size of the berry, and since they are bigger than raspberry seeds, I do not like them in a final product.  High-bush cranberries, too, have a large, flat seed.  So both of these berries I process into juice, syrup, or jelly, netting 4:1 yield – that is 4 gallon of fruit yields 1 gallon of fruit. 

The procedure of separating the fruit from the seeds involves several steps, several counter tops, and makes a mess, so I prefer to harvest many gallons over several days, freeze them, and then set aside several hours to process the fruit, and then pressure can it.    

Red currant bushes
When I started out, I poured raw berries into the hopper but the act of grinding squirted juice all over the kitchen.  Since then, I heat the berries in a big pot first, to pop the skins.  Then I let the pot cool overnight.  The next morning, after breakfast,  I assemble the food mill and clamp it to the kitchen table, next to several rags and two big bowls.  In the sink, I place a cheese cloth lined colander over a large pot.  I ladle the juicy berries into the top hopper and start manually turning a metal arm that draws  the fruit down into the grinder.  The juice pours into one bowl, while a pulpy, seedy bolus is extruded out into a second bowl.    

Our food mill came with several grinders, each with different sized holes with helpful usage labels like “salsa”, “berries” and “apples.”  However, we found that the “berry” grinder cannot handle the seeds of the cranberries and currants.  They clog the mechanism to a full stop, which we then have to dismantle, clean, and reassemble.  A MESS.  So we use the “salsa” grinder which does not clog, but allows a lot of seeds to escape into the juice bowl.  Now what?  After I process the fruit, I pour the seedy juice through the large cheese cloth lined colander in the sink.  Then I squeeze out as much of the juice as I can into the pot.  When I have hens, I feed them the pulp and seeds.  When I don't, I dump them in a location where a future bush might be a pleasant addition. Major clean up of sink, table, floor, pots, bowls, and mechanisms ensue.   

When I have accumulated about 2 gallons of juice, it is time to pressure can it in order to make it shelf stable for future enjoyment or for gifts.  For my size canner, I sterilize 7 quarts or 14 cups of glass mason jars in hot water in the pressure canner while heating the juice on another burner.  I ladle hot juice into hot jars, screw the lid onto the canner, and process for about 15 minutes.  Easy.  If I want to make jam or jelly, I mix a 1:2 ratio of sugar to juice and bring to a gentle boil, cooking it down to thicken it.  With a candy thermometer, I endeavor to get the temperature to about 220 F.  If all goes well, the mixture will thicken into jam.  If not, I have fruit syrup.  What’s not to like?  I also enjoy drinking the sweetened juice hot or cold.

 When I was a single mom, I looked at those small, expensive plastic containers of berries with envy.  On occasions when I bought one or two, my boys and I devoured them in a minute.  I feel so fortunate now, to live in a setting where so many delectable berries grow so prolifically… even in such a cold and dreary summer, when little else did.

RECIPE:  SPICY BARBEQUE SAUCE WITH BERRIES

I make this is large batches.  The recipe below is for a small batch, in case you would like to try it out and tweak it for your tastebuds.

Beer: 1 cup

Vinegar: 1 cup

Molasses: 1 cup

Berries:  1 cup of mashed raspberries or 1 cup of currant or cranberry juice  (Blackberries would be good, too)

Tomato paste:  1 6 oz can

Chipotle in adobe sauce:  1 pepper, chopped, and a tablespoon or so of sauce

Add herbs and spices of choice.  I add coffee and cloves to “darken” the flavor, several cloves of garlic, and chili powder. 

Enjoy.

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