(My book, Log Cabin Reflections, is available on Amazon. Each chapter includes pictures of our off-grid, off-road life in remote Alaska.)
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| Buddy preparing to haul |
To maximize food growth in summer, I start almost all annual (and desired perennial) plants in the winter, some outside, and some in.
Winter sowing: This practice is so easy and low maintenance that it almost does not sound feasible, but it does indeed results in healthy plants. It works best for seeds that need cold stratification (a period of several cold weeks before warming up) and for those that like to sprout in cool spring weather. To winter sow, I save plastic vinegar and distilled water jugs, slice them around the middle except for a hinge near the handle, fill with about 4 inches of soil, water it with a soil nutrient/root stimulater, sow the seeds and then leave the jugs outside, tied to a banister post so they will not blow away in a heavy wind. In the spring, when the air warms up, I water the soil lightly and the seeds sprout!
This method works beautifully for cabbage, onions, garlic, and spinach. For flowers, it has worked well for valerian, delphinium, lupines. For some reason, I did not have success with poppies or yarrow.
An alternative that can be done in warm weather, is to store damp seeds in a baggy in the refrigerator for several weeks. I have done this, too, but the sprouts were so delicate that they did not transplant well for me.
Testing germination: Seeds age out. If stored in a cool, dry, dark location, most can be expected to last for 3 years, but beyond that is a gift not to be presumed. People living in humid and hot environments may find that their seeds age out faster than mine.
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| Cabin on a sunny winter morning |
Last winter, I was determined to get rid of dead seeds, so as not expect that a packet was viable. I separated and test germinated the oldest packages (2016 - 2019). To do so, I dampened a paper napkin cut in half, rolled ten seeds into it and inserted this bolus shaped napkin in a small baggy which I labelled with seed name and the average range of germination timing. Ten seeds makes it easy to extrapolate to the percentage of viable seeds in the packet. All six varieties of peppers were dead as were the cucumbers and onions. Beans rotted in the damp. Some of the seeds of two varieties of rhubarb germinated, as did corn, beets, radishes, one of the tomato packages and one of the tomatillo packages, and to my surprise, watermelon. I gave all the dead seeds to the chickens as a winter snack.
From now on, I will do this every winter, to ensure that I have seeds on hand that will produce a good crop. Those that are dead I can reorder in time for a snowmachine delivery for March-April starts indoors.
Germinating in a cold oven: I set almost all of my little seed pots in a cold gas oven. The pilot light keeps the interior a more consistent, toasty temperature than my wood heated home offers, in the mid '70s, which is a germination temperature enjoyed by most seeds. In side by side comparisons, the seeds that start in the oven sprout several days ahead of their comrades outside the oven. This location is also good for seeds that require darkness to sprout, like cilantro.
Mini-greenhouse: In a corner of my cabin, I have a 4 shelf mini-greenhouse (6ft h x 3ft w x 2ft d) covered with a plastic sheath with two zippers on the front. Each shelf has two grow lights. This environment stays warmer and more humid than the southern windows, where I used to start seeds. I always sow slow germinating plants, like oregano, in February, as well as fast growing greens that we can enjoy as small, fresh salads or sandwich toppings by early March. As with the winter sowing, I always add a root stimulator to the soil or water. One caution is that the plastic can make the environment humid enough to encourage the growth of gray, fluffy mold on the surface of the soil. To mitigate that, I roll the plastic front “door” up over the top of the structure during daylight hours and close it up at night.
Challenges:
1. This year, I dug up the annual herbs before the gardens froze and brought them inside, hoping that they would overwinter in the mini-greenhouse. However, I found that even with the grow lights on for about 8 hours they did not thrive. They prefer 12+ hours of light. The result was not worth the effort, so I dried the remaining leaves, put the pots outside and will seed them again in February.
2. A mistake that I often make is to start plants too early because I am so eager. This results in leggy plants that are weak when transplanted outside. One year, my potato plants lay sideways on the ground!
Every gardener has his or her hacks and a history of hits and misses. These are a few that work for me so that I can utilize the cold and lazy months of winter to get a head start on a fast and furious summer of food production.
RRECIPE: Bubbles and Squeak
Bubbles and Squeak – what an evocative name for left overs! This side dish or entrée is mentioned in British texts as far back as the 1700s. It is a tasty way to use up a combination of leftover mashed potatoes, vegetables, and bits of meat. (Note: if you like this recipe, check out Irish Colcannon, which is similar, but adds milk.)
Melt 6 oz butter in a large, flat pan.
Sautee ½ cup chopped or diced onion and garlic to taste, about 3 minutes.
Add 2 cups of mashed potatoes. Thoroughly saturate with the melted butter.
Add 1 cup chopped, raw, green vegetables and mix in well with the potato. Cabbage is traditional, but any leafy green or diced broccoli will work nicely. Mix in any cooked, chopped meat, if desired, like ham or sausage.
At this point, decide whether you want the final product to be loose or individual patties.
If the former, warm through and serve, as a hash.
If the latter, shape the food into patties and chill for an hour or more, then fry in additional oil, pressing down on the patties to crisp up the cooking surface, and then flip, press, cook, and then serve.
Bubbles and Squeak is tasty either way. The only difference is texture and presentation.
